Dublin, Ireland (Part 3): Climbing the Cliffs of Howth

Working from our usual travel routine, Bill and I awoke early the next morning in order to catch a full day of Dublin touring. Typically, this early-morning strategy works well because it allows us to see a few extra sites in a single day. However, the Dublin time schedule wasn't very compatible with our own. If I had been thinking like a true Dubliner, I would have realized that a raucous Friday night at the pub with several pints of Guinness is the perfect excuse for sleeping in on a Saturday morning. Thinking like an American tourist, I was skipping out of the door of our hostel at 8:30 in the morning for a chance to squeeze in a few extra minutes of Irish sight-seeing. Much to our surprise, the before-bustling streets of Ireland's capital city were virtually deserted as we walked along the river in hopes of finding something to do in Dublin. Flipping through my Dublin tour book, we were also disappointed to find that many of the main attractions were closed on Saturdays. Hardly believing that everything could be shut down on a busy Saturday, we wandered around the city to check opening times for Dublin Castle, St. Patrick's Cathedral, and Kilmainham Gaol. Surely enough, my Lonely Planet guide book held true and the first two were closed for the day. Not wanting to waste our time by walking a few more blocks to the gaol, Bill and I debated on what to do in a city that was losing its luster by the minute.

Luckily, we stumbled upon a Tourist Information office (found in nearly every European city) and exasperatedly asked for advice on what to do in Dublin on a Saturday. Surprisingly, the tourist assistant suggested that we leave the city via train and visit the nearby coastal village of Howth. With maps and train information in hand, we jumped back into the Dublin streets with a much happier Irish outlook. Glancing at our watches, we decided to wait until the afternoon to catch a train to Howth and instead grab a low-key lunch in Dublin before walking along the coast of Ireland. Keeping our eyes peeled for a nice sandwich shop or cafe, I noticed that the city was finally waking up as shoppers began to crowd the streets. Stopping to snap a quick photo of the infamous Molly Malone, an elderly man sitting in front of the statue stood up and introduced himself to Bill and I. Seeing that we were American newcomers to the city, he gave a glowing review of the city and offered to take a few photos of us next to the statue. Grateful for the offer, we struck a quick pose next to Miss Molly while the cute little man recommended shops , restaurants, and parks for us to visit before leaving the city. Incredibly thankful for his help, we bade him farewell as he leaned forward to give me a proper Irish kiss on the cheek. :)

Bypassing the shops on Grafton Street, Bill and I meandered towards St. Stephen's Green in hopes of viewing a bit of nice park scenery before lunch. Finding very few green spaces in downtown Dublin, the landscaping of St. Stephen's Green definitely made up for the lack of city planning. Dotted with beautiful ponds and several foot bridges, St. Stephen's Green is the perfect place to enjoy a few relaxing moments while watching pigeons from a comfortable park bench. Wanting to capture the beauty of our favorite Irish park, Bill and I spent the next 30 minutes clicking photos and striking poses for new Facebook profile pictures. With the trees just beginning to change color, St. Stephen's Green was definitely a photographer's paradise.

After grabbing a quick pub lunch, Bill and I hopped on an eastbound train to the coast for a better view of Ireland's famed seascape. Feeling the need to walk off a rather large lunch, we decided to get off the train one stop early and walk from Sutton (another Dublin suburb) to Howth. A mile or two, the walk was beautiful in the sunshine, and we found our spirits quickly brightening from the clear air and secluded atmosphere. Walking into Howth, we headed straight for the marina to catch a glimpse of the island-dotted Atlantic coast. Though hundreds of boats remained docked, several Irelanders ventured out in sailboats to take advantage of the comfortable breeze. Looking for fish in the water down below, I was shocked to see two gray seals swimming around the marina. Having seen seals only before in zoos, I was incredibly excited to watch them come right up to the dock for a few people-friendly photos. Wandering from the marina, Bill and I hopped on a boardwalk to explore a bit more of the coast. Pausing for a few moments to take in the sight of the waves lapping against the rocky beach, my camera never got a chance to rest as I snapped picture after picture. Usually bogged down by museums and historical places of interest, it was refreshing to appreciate natural beauty rather than architectural acclaim. Reaching a lighthouse at the end of the boardwalk, Bill and I were ready to start our next Howth adventure -- climbing the cliffs of Ireland.

Seeing several large cliffs from the marina below, Bill and I were determined to find a way to climb the biggest. Though not impossible due to well-worn paths, hiking up the cliffs did take a bit of time and endurance, but when we reached the top, I knew that I had found the best view in all of Ireland. With strong winds nearly blowing us over, Bill stretched out his arms at the top just to keep his balance while I snapped a few photos of him as "king of the hill". Returning the favor, he insisted that I let my hair down just to show everyone back home how windy it was several hundred feet above sea level. Needless to say, I could barely keep my eyes open in the strong wind. Though already autumn, wildflowers still covered the coastal hills and the air was the sweetest that I have ever breathed. Unfortunately, my words once again fall short in describing the beauty of the Irish coast, which means that you'll either need to take my word on it or go visit it yourself!

Hiking for another hour or so around the Howth peninsula, we eventually climbed down from the cliffs and caught a bus back into the village. With stomachs rumbling for a nice piece of fresh-caught seafood, Bill and I found a cute oceanside restaurant serving fish that had been caught from the marina that morning. Ordering white bass over marinated vegetables, my taste buds were not disappointed by the most delicious fish that can only be found fresh on the coast. Though not a huge fish fan, excellent seafood restaurants have won in their quest to convert me to a fin-lover.

Watching dusk beginning to turn into night, Bill and I decided that it was time to leave our beloved Howth and take a train back to Dublin. Not wanting to waste a perfectly good Irish Saturday night, we collected our book bags from the hostel storage closet and slipped into a comfortable pub for a bit of Irish people-watching. Sipping Dublin-distilled Jameson's whisky and ginger ale, we relaxed in the lively bar atmosphere by watching the second half of the soccer game between Ireland and Germany. Never quite figuring out who won, I was distracted by the group of people next to me. About five or six native Dubliners were socializing with a few drinks when a young female American tourist sat down at their table and introduced herself. Nudging Bill to watch the conversation that was taking place, I laughed to myself and thought, "Wow, this girl is the definition of egotistical American tourist." Always conscious to not make ourselves seem too obviously American, we had a bit of entertainment as the girl proceeded to list all of her travel plans in a "rich daddy's girl" tone of voice while flirting with a group of guys that would have rather enjoyed watching the soccer game to cheer on the Irish. Laughing at her stereotypical sorority sister attitude, even Bill and I began to get slightly annoyed by her non-stop chatter. Chuckling at the display of tourist gab, I thought to myself, "Yep, the reserved British way of life is definitely rubbing off on me!"

Finishing our second round of drinks, Bill and I hopped on a bus towards our airport hotel. With an 8 a.m. flight on Sunday morning, we were thankful for a quiet night of sleep before another busy day of traveling. Watching the Irish landscape disappear below as our plane took off the next morning, I smiled as I flipped through pictures taken on a successful first trip away from England.